Saturday, March 27, 2010

PFW, IMO: The Road Not Taken Leads To The Future

I looked through a ton of Fall 2010 collections from Paris Fashion Week, so I've honestly been a bit reluctant to write a review teehee. But I'll attempt to skim it all down to what I believe is truly noteworthy.  Paris is like the cool kid of all the Fashion Week locations...designers are always doing their own thing while New York, London, and Milan tend to have something cohesive going on.  Perhaps that's why I've been taking SO LONG to review these collections.  It's hard to take everything in...don't know how fashion people do it.

Recycled chic?  Balenciaga is always moving towards the future so of course you can't really expect anything "classic" from its fall collection.  Lots of innovative construction with all the little pillows of synthetic material weaved with colorful magazine prints.  What really got me confused were those pants with a zipper that pulls down to unfold a top that's actually attached the trousers.  Seems origami-esque to me!  The rest of this collection shows the usual (but still awesome) Balenciaga juxtaposition of rigidity and softness.

For some reason I totally imagined Jimi Hendrix in Freja's outfit.  Weird because his style was more...hippie-ish?  Though some reminders of the '60s were in there with psychedelic brocades printed on blazers and trousers, Christophe Decarnin kept every ensemble looking polished at Balmain.  "Hippie" wasn't even in this collection's vocabulary.  Rock and roll unsurprisingly was.  Christophe Decarnin tends to do the same thing every season (strong shoulders and rock and roll elements) but I love what he did this season.  Overly priced suits also make more sense than overly priced tattered tees and jeans.

Margiela is BACK.  Theoretically?  Although Martin Margiela no longer helms his own label, the fall collection was the best we've seen from the brand lately.  Exaggerated waistlines, super boxy clutches, fur headdress veil thingies, trouser leggings (not shown here), smudged lipstick (also not shown)...hopefully the design team won't revert back to their old messy ways and stick with this cool avant garde aesthetic.

So I watched Breakfast at Tiffany's for the first time today and Holly's red felt coat reminded me of Miu Miu.  I think this collection was one of my favorites from Paris.  The bright, super short dresses had a mid-60s feel and the details like the floral adornments and big scalloped pockets were adorable.  Also, the eye make-up reminds me of how Twiggy and Pattie Boyd did their make-up back in the day.

I've got to say that I don't like the decision at Giles to only cast established models.  Give the newbies a chance!  There wasn't one model who you couldn't name in an instant (I think).  Anyway, this collection was more or less similar to what Giles Deacon has done in the past (layers of scalloped or spiky paper thin fabric) but it's something I've always loved (guilty pleasure?).  Also, it's kind of cute how the floor matches some of the clothes and accessories.

Just a few things I noticed...Balenciaga wasn't the only label to show zippered-down bottoms.  Givenchy featured some opened flies -- no fold-out shirts but these outfits held a Bavarian twist.  A white scalloped number (more scalloped edges!) opened the Valentino show and why yes, it reminded me of a dress from Balenciaga's resort collection.  What's going on?  Continuing with this trend of unusually-cut edges, the edges of that Christian Dior jacket were cut to look something like a doily.  Pretty!

This is where I reveal my unabashed love for The Beatles and my acute eye for Beatles references (even the subtle ones).  I felt that Chloé's fall collection was a bit of a spring 2010 redux, except more covered up.  Anyway, I noticed that utilitarian jacket looked a lot like The Beatles' Shea jackets, modeled after the Bahamian police uniform they saw while filming Help!.  The boys wore these during their historic performance at Shea Stadium (thus the name of the jacket).  Valentino showed a good fall collection but what caught my eye were those rounded glasses!  Very John Lennon-esque and I SWEAR I've seen a photo of him wearing green-tinted glasses before.  I went through all my Beatles photos (yes, ALL OF THEM) and only found a picture of George wearing green-tinted glasses.  Oh well, he deserves some more attention anyway.  P.S. Expect more Beatleness next post.  A lot more.

If Viktor and Rolf decided that fashion design was not their fate, they would've been awesome magicians.  Can someone please explain how THAT ^ ...

...became THAT ^ ?  And is that an arm jutting out next to her head?  Looks like she's stuck.

Ah yes, and about Alexander McQueen's was beyond amazing but I don't feel that his collection would fit within these reviews.  I'm afraid it'll get lost in the really deserves a post of its own.  But at the same time, I don't know if I can even put to words what I feel about the collection.  I think the best thing to do, if you haven't seen his collection, is just to see it.  No review will sum up this collection, or McQueen's legacy, well enough.

Trends Observed: Scalloped edges, rigid silhouettes, opened flies (rest easy now that you know you'll be considered cool if you forget to do something before walking out of the loo)

Images: Coutorture,, Beatley sites and Tumblrs??


Stephanie said...


✿ e m i r i said...

wow. how did viktor and rolf come up with that...

that christian dior jacket is pretty, and the skirt looks like it'd feel really smooth... i love ruffles :D